Hard · Knoydart
The walk from Kinloch Hourn to the Old Forge in Inverie is one of Britain's great low-level treks — a full day's hike through the heart of Knoydart, the "Rough Bounds" sandwiched between Loch Nevis and Loch Hourn, ending at the country's most remote mainland pub.
The route starts at a small car park at the very end of the 22-mile single-track road from the A87, itself an adventure given its narrow, winding nature. From Kinloch Hourn, a path follows the steep southern shore of Loch Hourn — a narrow, fjord-like sea loch dividing the Glenelg and Knoydart peninsulas — passing the isolated cottage at Skiary and continuing for around six miles of increasingly wild, marshy terrain, with the path clinging to the loch edge in places. This ancient route once served as a drovers' and deer-stalkers' path, and darker still, as a coffin road carrying bodies to the burial ground at Kilchoan near Inverie.
The path eventually reaches Barrisdale Bay, with terrific views down the loch towards Skye and a full view of Ladhar Bheinn, Knoydart's highest peak and the most westerly Munro on the Scottish mainland — many walkers break the journey here, staying at the privately run bothy or camping nearby. From Barrisdale, the route climbs to Mam Barrisdale, the highest point of the whole walk at around 450 metres, with splendid views back over the loch, before descending through boggy ground down Gleann an Dubh-Lochain, passing its eponymous loch and through pleasant woodland to reach Inverie — and, at last, the Old Forge, celebrated as the remotest pub in mainland Britain.
Most parties split this substantial walk across two days, though very fit and well-prepared hikers do complete the full 25-kilometre route in a single long day; the return to Kinloch Hourn (or onward via the Mallaig ferry from Inverie) requires careful planning given the total absence of road access to Knoydart.
This is a serious undertaking through remote, boggy, midge-prone terrain with essentially no mobile phone signal for most of the route — full self-sufficiency, waterproof boots, and a realistic assessment of fitness and daylight hours are all essential, and walkers should check ahead that the Old Forge is open and serving food before setting out.
Parking at Kinloch Hourn is £5.00 per night, there is no public transport to the start, and the only way out of Inverie other than retracing your steps is the ferry to Mallaig.
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